While exploring the southern end of Cardigan Bay, I drove through the small town of Newport and was immediately captivated by its picturesque stone-built cottages. I couldn’t stop that day, so I promised myself I would return for a proper visit to explore Trefdraeth (its Welsh name, meaning ‘town by the beach’). And I’m so glad I did.
Not only is the town, located in north Pembrokeshire, visually charming, but it is also characterised by a variety of interesting eateries, art shops, exhibitions, and some very old historical landmarks. Add the stunning nearby beach, and your day is quickly fulfilled.
newport and newport
There is another place called Newport in Wales – the third-largest city in the country, with a population of more than 160,000, located 12 miles north-east of Cardiff. The Newport featured in this article, by contrast, has a population of just over 1,000.
Explore The Town
After parking at the Long Street car park, next to the information centre, I walked along the main street (A487), taking in the buildings and familiarising myself with the surroundings. There are some interesting pubs and cafés, all with very good ratings on Google and TripAdvisor. Market Street has a good concentration of them, including Blas at Fronlas if you’re looking to stop for a hot drink.
Market Street is also home to Tŷ Twt Dolls’ House, a museum featuring a private collection of dolls’ houses and vintage toys. Unfortunately, it was closed when I visited, as it only opens during half-term weeks. There are also various art shops and galleries worth exploring in the town, including Yr Oriel, just past the Castle Inn.
South of the high street, you’ll find St Mary’s Church. There’s also a castle nearby, partially hidden by tall bushes and trees. The original was built in the 13th century, and the current structure dates from the 19th century. It’s now a private residence and not open to the public.
I then began heading east along the high street (A487) in search of Carreg Coetan, a Neolithic burial chamber. As I passed more stone buildings and local businesses, I realised just how pretty this town is – full of charm and unique character. Even the local launderette looks cosy and inviting!
Carreg Coetan Arthur Burial Chamber
The monument is located at the far eastern end of the town, just north of the main road in a residential area. After passing the Llys Meddyg Hotel and Restaurant, turn left onto Feidr Pen-Y-Bont and walk for about two minutes, then take another left onto Carreg Coetan, where you’ll see several houses and driveways. The monument is on your right in an enclosed area (please note that while you are allowed to visit, it is situated on private property).
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An information panel explains the history of the site. Most interestingly, it notes that artefacts such as Neolithic pottery, stone tools, and cremated human bones were discovered here. These likely belonged to herders who, at a fixed point in their nomadic lives, placed the remains of loved ones they had been carrying with them.
The site is also linked to the legends of King Arthur, who, according to local lore, played quoits with the capstone. The name ‘coetan’ refers to this type of game, while ‘carreg’ means ‘stone’ in Welsh.
Medieval Kiln
Walking back to the other side of town along the main road, I arrived at the Memorial Hall, where another fascinating piece of history awaits: the most intact surviving medieval pottery kiln in the UK.
The story goes that the Newport community purchased the land in 1921 to build a Memorial Hall in honour of loved ones lost in the First World War – and made an unexpected discovery. Not only was there a rare, well-preserved medieval pottery kiln on the site, but it also featured an innovative design for its time, one that would go on to inspire kiln construction for generations. Even the bottle kilns of the Industrial Revolution were influenced by this early example.
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The kiln can only be viewed through glass, but there are plenty of information panels surrounding it, offering insights into life in medieval Newport. During this period, pottery became one of the town’s most prosperous trades, alongside wool, herring, and slate. Newport emerged as one of the most active medieval towns in the country.
Walk To Parrog
As I still had a bit of time before lunch, I walked down to the harbour, Parrog. It’s only a 10-minute walk from the main road in the town centre—just follow Parrog Road.
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From there, you can admire the view across the estuary to Traeth Mawr (which means ‘large beach’ in Welsh), also known as Newport Sands. If you have more time to explore, there are several walking routes, including the coastal path that leads to small beaches such as Bettws and Cwm—a pebble beach where an old lifeboat house still stands.
Some of Parrog’s history as a port is still visible, but today the harbour is mainly a holiday destination, with caravan and camping sites, as well as charming cottages right by the water. The old warehouse has been converted into the Boat Club, and Mor Awelon Café serves lunches.
There is a small car park near the Boat Club, where you’ll also find public toilets.
Lunch at Pwnc
At one o’clock, I decided it was time for a quick lunch before getting back in the car to explore the surrounding area. Intrigued by the sign and the cosy atmosphere inside, I tried Pwnc Café, where I had a delicious borscht—a Ukrainian soup made with red beetroot—alongside a tasty coffee. The menu offers an interesting and refreshing variety, quite different from your typical café fare. Highly recommended!
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Cwm yr Eglwys
A short eight-minute drive west took me to another interesting site at the foot of the eastern side of Ynys Dinas (Dinas Island). Cwm-yr-Eglwys is a hamlet nestled in a picturesque cove, home to around ten year-round residents. There’s a small, award-winning beach and a narrow slipway for launching small boats. Canoes and paddle boards are available to rent next to the car park during the holiday season, and an annual regatta is held here in early August.
road and car park
The final mile leading to the hamlet is along a narrow lane, which can be challenging for campervans and other large vehicles. Please note that the car park costs £5 for all-day parking and is cash only. There is an honesty box for payment if no one is present to collect the money.
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But the main attraction is the Church of St Brynach—or rather, what remains of it. The church was severely damaged by storms between 1850 and 1859 and was later demolished, leaving only the west entrance wall still standing today.
For hikers and walkers, the Pembrokeshire Coast Path offers a circular walk around Ynys Dinas, which you can start and finish in Cwm-yr-Eglwys. The walk takes about two hours and includes some steep ascents and descents, but the spectacular coastal views make it well worth the effort. See more information on the National Trust website.
Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber
Back in the car, I retraced my steps and took another short drive through Newport, heading east to find the remains of Pentre Ifan—the largest and best-preserved Neolithic burial chamber in Wales. The site is accessed via a country road, with limited parking available near the entrance.
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The location offers beautiful views of the surrounding hills and exudes a quiet, peaceful atmosphere that invites relaxation—or even meditation, as demonstrated by a woman I encountered at the site shortly after I arrived.
The large stones are made of bluestone, the same material used at Stonehenge, and they have stood in position for more than 5,000 years. The arrangement is thought to have formed the centre of a larger monument. While it is believed to be a tomb, no human remains have ever been found.
It’s a remarkable sight: the capstone appears to almost float, even though it is carefully balanced on three upright stones and has not shifted in over five millennia. Archaeologists believe this particular design—and the visual effect it creates—was intentional.
The video below, published by Cadw Wales and created using CGI technology, offers a representation of how the monument might have looked when it was first built.
Sunset at Newport Sands
With sunset not far off, the last place I visited was Traeth Mawr, or Newport Sands, which lies opposite Parrog on the other side of the estuary. It’s a vast beach stretching for nearly a mile. There’s a large car park, public toilets, and a café, and further up the road you’ll find a restaurant and a golf club.
Newport Sands is popular in the summer, offering a safe swimming area supervised by lifeguards, along with a variety of water-based activities. Adventurous canoeists and kayakers often explore the nearby secluded beaches tucked along the cliffs. The beach remains lively even in winter, attracting kite surfers and windsurfers.
There are also several walking routes offering stunning views from the cliff tops along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, as well as shorter walks that lead down a small valley to a waterfall—accessible only at low tide.
walking to newport sands
From the town, it is possible to reach Newport Sands on foot. From Parrog, you can cross the river at low tide, or follow part of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path along the north side of the Nevern Estuary — a walk that takes around half an hour. You can also join the Coast Path from the town by following Feidr Pen-y-Bont and continuing until you reach the bridge that crosses the river.
Supper At The Canteen
I finished off my day with a quick supper at The Canteen, which boasts one of the highest online ratings. I enjoyed a nice pizza followed by some ice cream. For those who prefer more traditional meals, the pubs along the main street also look excellent and have high ratings. Additionally, there is Tides Kitchen And Wine Bar on Market Street if you’re seeking seafood dishes.
Extra Information
There is a good selection of self-catering accommodation, bed and breakfasts, and caravan parks if you wish to stay in Newport, which makes an excellent base for exploring the area. Check out the Newport Pembrokeshire website for more information.
The nearest petrol station is Dinas Cross Service Station, about three miles west of Newport along the A487. (G Maps | Maps)
Some of the activities mentioned here involve walking on the beach, so be sure to check the tides (adding one hour for Newport tides). The Newport website has a helpful page with tide times.
Public Transport
There are no trains serving Newport. The nearest station is in Fishguard, about seven miles away, where the Marches Line connects you to the south and the capital, Cardiff. More information is available on the Transport for Wales website.
If you are travelling to or from the north, the best option is the T5 bus, which links Haverfordwest to Aberystwyth. Timetables can be found on Traveline Cymru.
Parking
The main car park is Long Street car park, opposite the information centre (G Maps | Maps). You can pay with coins or via a mobile app, but 4G reception isn’t great and, in my case, I couldn’t load the app, so I had to use cash—something to keep in mind.
There is another car park at Parrog, by the old harbour.
EV Charging Points
The only charging stations in town are at the Long Street Car Park. These are slow 7kW chargers operated by Dragon Charging. You need an RFID card or the app to use them. Due to my poor network connection, I was unable to charge the car there.
Additional slow chargers are available at the Newport Sands car park (also operated by Dragon Charging), where I had a better connection and charging was successful.
Public Toilets
There are public toilets at all three car parks mentioned in this article: Long Street, Parrog, and Newport Sands.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Newport, Pembrokeshire, worth visiting?
Yes, it’s a charming town with its own distinctive character—featuring many beautiful stone buildings, interesting historical sites to explore, a great selection of cafés, pubs and restaurants, a large sandy beach nearby, and a picturesque harbour.
Does Newport have a beach?
It actually has two. The one in Parrog is the closest but isn’t as large or as attractive as Newport Sands.
Can you park on Newport beach in Pembrokeshire?
Yes, there is a large pay-and-display car park, but parking on the beach itself is not permitted.
Is Newport Beach, Pembrokeshire dog friendly?
Yes, dogs are allowed on Newport Sands.
