The title above quotes the words of Dylan Thomas, Wales’s greatest poet, when describing the place where he spent many years of his life. But even though Laugharne has a strong poetic heritage because of its connection to Thomas, it has much more to offer.
Located next to the Taf estuary in the south coast of Carmarthenshire (South Wales), here you will find serene waterside views, walking trails, quaint cafés, historic architecture and cultural events. And of course, this is Wales, so don’t worry – there is also a castle, described by Thomas as ‘brown as owls’, whose view from the green banks is quite striking and one of my personal favourites.
So whether you are a history buff, nature lover, literary pilgrim, or simply wish to slow down and take in the atmosphere, Laugharne should be a destination to add to your list of places to visit.
Things to See and Do in Laugharne
The association with Dylan Thomas is the main reason people visit Laugharne, so that’s where we should begin. The Boathouse, overlooking the estuary and where he spent the last years of his life, is open to the public. It features Thomas memorabilia and original furniture, as well as a tearoom and shop.
Just above the Boathouse, along the public footpath, you will find Thomas’s writing shed, where he worked. The views are spectacular, especially at low tide when the exposed mudflats contrast with the shimmering river.
Laugharne Castle is another must-see. Originally founded in 1116 as part of a chain of Norman castles, it suffered multiple attacks throughout the 12th and 13th centuries, before being rescued and transformed into a magnificent Tudor mansion.
Today the castle stands in partial ruin but with enough structure to wander through walls and towers, while enjoying panoramic views over the estuary. Gently sloping lawns and ornamental gardens, added in the 19th century, make for pleasant strolls around the grounds.
Speaking of walking, there are several trails around Laugharne that offer different experiences. One of the most famous is The Dylan Thomas Birthday Walk which follows the route up St John’s Hill — a two-mile walk with verses from his Poem in October inscribed on a series of benches along the way. You also get excellent views across the estuary to Gower, Caldey Island, and even Tenby on a clear day.
St Martin’s Church is also worth a visit, with its atmospheric graveyard. This is where Thomas is buried alongside his wife.
Don’t miss a wander around the town itself: King Street, Market Lane, the Town Hall with its clock tower, and traditional houses. There are independent shops, delis and tearooms where you can pause and soak up the ambience. And if you’re looking for somewhere to eat, I had an excellent meal at The Globe Wine Bar.
Finally, there are other buildings of note as you explore the town, such as Castle House, a Georgian mansion below the castle, and the Great House, an early 18th-century home in Queen Anne style.
There is also Island House, a 16th-century Grade II listed building, located below the castle. Recently, during restoration works, a medieval quay was discovered on site by archaeologists — the first of its kind to be found in Wales.
quick facts about laugharne
- Laugharne is one of the oldest self-governing towns in Britain.
- Dylan Thomas first visited Laugharne in 1934 and immediately fell in love with the place. He lived there, on and off, for nearly two decades, eventually settling in the Boathouse in 1949, where he remained until his death in 1953.
- Many aspects of his writing were inspired by the town’s riverside setting and unique layout.
When is the Best Time to Visit Laugharne?
If you’re passionate about — or simply curious to learn more about — Wales’s most famous poet, Laugharne hosts The Laugharne Weekend, an annual literary and arts festival held every spring in celebration of all things Dylan Thomas. It’s an intimate event, where visitors rub shoulders with performers and locals alike, and it’s a wonderful way to soak up the town’s cultural atmosphere.
As with many destinations, the usual advice applies: spring or autumn offer mild weather and fewer tourists, while summer brings longer café and shop hours but also larger crowds, especially at weekends.
In winter there is less going on, and some venues operate with reduced hours.
Useful Information When Visiting Laugharne
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Public Transport: Laugharne is served by bus 222 (Carmarthen–Pendine). The nearest train station is in Carmarthen.
Parking: The best place to park is at the Green Banks car park, by the castle. This is also where many walks begin.
Public Toilets: Located next to Island House, on Wogan Street behind the car park.
Laugharne Castle: Open from early April to early November (closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays). Tickets cost £6 for adults, with discounts available for young people and seniors. See the Cadw website for details.
Dylan Thomas Boathouse: Open year-round, with reduced hours from October to March. See the official website for up-to-date information.
Island House: You can visit the archaeological site, which is still under excavation. Advance booking is required. See the Cadw website for details.
The Laugharne Weekend: This annual event takes place around late March. You can find more information about the next edition on the official website.
